The Harwood Arms on Walham Grove in Fulham holds a distinction no other London pub can claim: a Michelin star, held since 2010. The pub itself dates to 1866, but the modern incarnation is a collaboration between Brett Graham of the three-Michelin-starred The Ledbury, game specialist Mike Robinson and Edwin Vaux, with head chef Josh Cutress, formerly of The Square and The Ledbury.
The Sunday roast
Sunday lunch here is the headline act. The roast, beef or pork, is served for two to share, with roast carrots, cabbage, roast potatoes, Yorkshire puddings, a tall pitcher of gravy and a five-cheese cauliflower cheese. It is the kind of roast that resets your expectations of what a pub Sunday lunch can be.
The rest of the menu
The Harwood Arms is a champion of British game and wild food, with a sustainability focus and produce from its own rooftop garden. The chef keeps his own herd of sika deer. The legendary venison Scotch egg, fried to order with a jammy centre and homemade dipping sauces, is the signature starter. Elsewhere on the menu you will find rabbit shoulder lasagne, Berkshire fallow deer, Yorkshire grouse and custard flan.
The room
Inside is Victorian exuberance: peacock-feather chandeliers, gilded mirrors, wood panelling and stuffed game. It is dog-friendly, runs a quiz night on Tuesdays and has an excellent wine list. Prices are at the expensive end, roughly £23 to £47 per dish.
The verdict
Book weeks ahead, especially for Sunday lunch. The Harwood Arms proves a pub can cook at the highest level without losing its soul. Open Monday to Thursday 5:30pm to 9:15pm, Friday and Saturday lunch and dinner, Sunday 12pm to 8:15pm.
Photo: Google Maps
